Baden-Baden: A Hike to Hohenbaden Castle

The impressive ruin of Hohenbaden Castle above Baden-Baden is visible from far away and catches the eye even from the Kurpark and town centre. The hike up, starting from Neues Schloss (New Palace), is a mere 3 kms, but rather steep uphill. The walk took me about 45 minutes. The reward is, apart from the castle itself, an amazing view.

It was a sunny day in late March. The trees were still bare, but there was spring in the air. Little wildflowers were blooming everywhere: violets, wood anemones, and oxalis. Plants at the bottom of the forest have to take their chance to catch as much sunlight as possible before the big trees are sprouting their leaves and taking all the light.

Halfway up the trail passes the modern chapel and the fountain dedicated to the local saint, St Bernhard of Baden.

Trails are well signposted, but the direction was clear anyway. Early spring is a great season for hiking. In a deciduous forest like this one, which as mostly beech trees, the view goes much further than in summer when it’s a mass of green leaves. After a while the silhouette of the castle appeared behind the curtain of tree trunks like a phantom. This scenery could work as stage setting for some Wagner opera.

The path then leads round the eastern and southern side of the castle to the entrance.

Castle Hohenbaden, also named the Old Palace (Altes Schloss), was the first castle of the Margraves, after which they named themselves „von Baden“.

It consists of two parts. The upper castle, the so-called Hermannsbau, with the castle keep was begun around 1100 under Margrave Hermann II. Since 1112 the name “von Baden” has been in use. The 19th century has done a lot of repair and reconstruction i n particular on these buildings because of their significance as the starting point of Baden's history as a dynasty and territory.

The lower castle was added around 1400. Under Margrave Bernhard I. the Bernhardsbau was built. His successor Jakob I. extended the castle even further. However, already a few decades later the New Palace in town became the main residence. The old castle was then abandoned and fell to ruins. According to its historical importance, however, it has been saved and partly reconstructed in the 19th century.

Admission to the ruins is free, there are neither guards nor guides. Visitors can explore the ruins on their own to their liking.

There are some boards with explanations but in German only, and scarce.

Stairs and galleries are secured, a bit of caution not to stumble is nevertheless advisable.

Landscape views through the window holes

Wind harp and castle keep

In Bernhardsbau, a strange musical sound fills the air. It is caused by a wind harp which has been installed in one of the window holes. The wind makes the strings vibrate and thus creates the sound.

The highest point is the castle keep, which can be climbed. The top offers a wide view in all directions over Baden-Baden, the Northern Black Forest, and, weather permitting, across the Rhine plain to the hill chains of Vosges and Palatine Forest on the horizon.

View of the Rhine plain

Baden-Baden and the snow-covered peaks of the Northern Black Forest

More entries about Baden-Baden:

https://karlsruhedaytrips.travellerspoint.com/187/ (General comments and sightseeing)
https://karlsruhedaytrips.travellerspoint.com/263/ (A walk along Lichtentaler Allee)
https://karlsruhedaytrips.travellerspoint.com/142/ (Merkurberg)